When the swell is too big for the local spots you are going to ride, you get in the Red Rocket and you scoot over to some other waves that will no doubtedly handle that size. So that is what we did. We jumped in the car mid morning and flew down to another spot. On arrival we checked some spots but it was the old faithful we choose to go to. Walking again but this time having to piggyback Michael Veltman as he did not want to get his shoes dirty. Again we knew we were in for a day of sunshine, good times and pumping waves. We had met up with Luke Kitchin, Mafoos Lombard and Benji Oliver. It was setting out to be a good day with all the boys.
Air Reverse. Frame: Michael Veltman
Waves were indeed pumping! I hurried out and got a few off the bat and then linked into a looping air reverse that was one of my best I may have ever done. As usual Michael was sitting in the right spot with many more link ups. I then shuffled onto the peak and managed to sneak one under the crowd that was going to go unridden. I pushed into it and rode a high line beaming for some speed and managed to sneak out of the barrel before it came closing down. Ian Thurtell was in the water and snagged one of my favourite shots of the session with a backlit barrel from the water.
Barrel down the beach. Photo: Ian Thurtell
To end off an epic day of waves we headed into town and grabbed some desperately needed food. We stuffed our faces and sat googly eyed watching footage off the small screen of Michael’s Camera. Some well deserved coffee and then it was time to head home.
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